Friday 10 January 2014

Day 3, arrive Harbin


Struggling with the normal backache from these awful mattresses I roused myself for some nice coffee.
Our cabin
It was interesting seeing the change from Russia to China. Suddenly there was lots more farming, and for miles and miles the Chinese are building a double line for a bullet train. All the way along next to the existing line. So much is being spent on infrastructure!
Bullet train line being built

The most exciting thing of the morning was seeing a little fox from the train. Sweetest thing. Nearing Harbin, our conductor told us to look out the window as we passed the tiger zoo and I saw 4 of the poor creatures walking in an enclosure about the size of a football field,  maybe bigger. At reaching Harbin our very friendly neighbours got very excited when they thought Roy was forgetting his phone, and ignoring my "No, please No" they managed to smash it into a few pieces across the floor. A few new dents, it at least still works fine. They meant well, but when she wanted to help dress me for the warm that was going a bit far.
So we had arrived in China!


Lots of people, lots of guttural snot clearing and spitting, and the occasional car driving on the pavement. Without having any cash yet we walked to the hotel which was a slow half hour, seeing our first ice sculptures on the way.

We found the Ibis hotel and Roy went to the bank of China next door and exchanged the rest of our rubles for yen. After 2 days on the train (second class, shared basin only) it was good to wash my hair and have a proper shower.
In the lobby was an agent who offered free transport to "Ice and Snow World" if we bought our tickets through her. We did and were waiting in the lobby by 3.30. We were disappointed it wasn't leaving a little earlier as sunset was about 4, but the half hour didn't seem worth the effort of trying to arrange a taxi. After waiting about 15 minutes I went to check with her, only to be told it would only be 4.30 now. Wondering if that would become 5, then 5.30 which was the later shuttle we decided to ask for our money back and tried getting a taxi. We were convinced the guy in the lobby was overcharging at 150 although later we wondered if he misunderstood us and it was to wait and return. Anyway, him not letting the hotel reception advise what the fare should be annoyed us. So we started walking and waving at all the taxis who ignored us. We'd see one pull over and people get out, and before we could get to the driver someone else would jump in. It's hard catching a taxi in Harbin! We reached the frozen river where it was quite festive. Foofy slides and horse sleys on the river. Walking along the river I soon managed to flag a taxi who swerved across the traffic, blocking one lane, while Roy couldn't get across the other lane so we could leave and restore traffic flow. In China everyone just hoots. It then took us a while, using translators and maps to explain where we were going. The drive was further than expected, along a freeway. From a distance the Park looked magical. He asked the traffic police where to drop us and we piled out in the parking area. In our rush Roy left his one mitten in the taxi which he was most upset about. Thank goodness he'd brought his other gloves so he'd be going home with both hands at least.
And it was cold. We joined the crowds and got our tickets,  300 yen each and entered the park. The sculptures were good, but perhaps a little too much too close? Perhaps the pink, Blue, Green colours were all too much? Perhaps we'd hyped it too much.

For you, dad
As my toes got numb we went into the food hall and had some delicious broccoli dumplings and some very spicy tofu.

Outside, we tried the frozen toffee apples you see all over Harbin.

Admired a few more sculptures before warming up again.

Show at Ice World


Stumbled on a show with people skating down a mountain and lots of red flags. At 8 we entered he theatre and watched the first 5 minutes of a Moulin Rouge copy. Worried about how we were getting home, we exited about 8.30, relieved to find taxis. The first wanted to charge 100yen but the next guy said 60 which we accepted.

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