Datong

Our conductor woke us and handed back our tickets, taking her card back. Nice system. She had to wake us again as we arrived at the station. Good thing I'd slept in all my clothes and she was so conscientious,  else who knows where we'd have woken up. Datong was colder than Beijing and we arrived at 6.15 so it was still dark. A particular taxi driver was vevery insistant and we tried telling him we'd come back later as  just wanted to get our bearings and find some breakfast. We walked to the CITS travel agency which the guide book said was just around the corner. It all looked a bit dingy and the taxi followed us in. At the hotel receptireception we saw the CITS information sign but nobody was behind the counter. The taxi drivedriver handed us his phone where someone agreed the day price for him was 360. When we got off the phone we realised a man was now standing at the sign and we asked him about the tours. Unlike the taxi driver he spoke English and seemed a real gentleman and said we could have a taxi for the day at 350 and we accepted. He advised the taxi driver who finally left us. While he was too persistent, it's also hard seeing people try so hard to make a living. The gentleman said we wewere welcome to sit in the CITS lounge and he brought us some hot watewater so we could make ourselves coffee while he went for his morning run. Before he left he asked if we would be interested in sharing the taxi with 2 ladies for 100 each and wwe said sure. They also agreed and soon 2 lovely girls from Serbia arrived. They both speak perfect English as well as Chinese. They have been studying language and just completed 6 months studying Chinese at Beijing university. We all used the toilets and chatted until our taxi arrived at 8.
The drive to the hanging temple took over an hour, with one near head on with a truck. Our driver was a little crazy. Even people in other cars advised us of such (Maria translated he shouted comments for us). At the temple it was really cold. Instant frozen fingers. The wind was the problem.

At the hanging temple, frozen waterfalls

But the temple was quite something. First we walked past the frozen waterfalls, then up the hill to the temple.

I was terrified walking along these planks of wood hanging over a VERY high cliff, but was glad I did it.
The drive to Yungan caves was as perilous until the ladies asked him to slow down and Roy gestured no rush ( see, please stop overtaking trucks on blind corners!) He took us to a restaurant for lunch and we ordered fish and chicken. The girls warned us the chicken sounded dodgy, but we think it was just badly cut. Not much got eaten. The fish was very tasty but too full of bones. The hogs in the garden out back looked very sweet and I was glad I don't eat them.  Satisfied, we headed off for Yungan caves, avoiding toll roads by driving through the dodgy areas of Datong. Lots of dust and stray dogs, then through and industrial area full of trucks. We made it there alive and walked up to the caves which were lovely. The air pollution was bad here, unlike Beijing which surprised me. Apparently the Siberian wind blows it away in winter. So the smog made good lighting for photos and we all ambled along the path enjoying the statues.

We viewed the temple afterwards before heading back to CITS lounge by 5 where we are now relaxing until our train.

Working temple at the statues

The gentleman confirmed with Olia and Maria that the bus trip they wanted was definitely not running due to the snow, so they went to the station and got tickets back to Beijing for later in the evening. I chatted with the gentleman for a while about property development and was surprised how expensive Beijing is. He regrets his decision to not buy a few years back as prices have since gone up 20 times! He explained that families will work together and all help so one person in the family can buy. He is helping his daughter. The girls went off to dinner so we said goodbye and the gentleman kindly allowed us to stay in the lounge until our train.

Olia and Mar

This has made the day so much nicer, although I would really enjoy a shower soon! Haven't had one since Harbin, which was 3 days ago!
We bought some water and a beer at the station and boarded our train. The cabins now feel like home and back is slowly adjusting to the rocks for mattresses so I slept well. On the top bunk was a mother and daughter with a large musical instrument.

more photos to follow

Beijing

We were woken at six, with my predictable numb ear. This trip had a pillow filled with sand. I slept on my duvet, doubling it up as a pillow and my soft hat thing which only slightly helped. We had ample time to  make coffee and charge phones a little as the train arrives in Beijing at 7.20. We said goodbyes, zipped up bags and made our way out the station. We found a small left luggage which was about R800 for 4 days. Seemed a bit high, but was too difficult to try find another one . So we were in Beijing!

Beijing style

Walked off towards Tiannenman Square and bought delicious breakfast for 7 yen. It was pancake, egg, sauces, chicken and a large crackly thing. Was delicious. Almost at the "Forbidden City" we were approached by a rickshaw guy who said only 3 yen. He took us through the back streets up a block or two and then stopped in a side street and produced a card showing the ride was 300 yen each. Ja sure, dude. We told him to take a hike. He even made out he'd do us a favour and charge 300 for both of us.  I've decided that in future when these I've scam me, I will walk off without paying as a way to stop this crap, because I'm sure there are people who get caught. Anyway,  we gave him 40 and walked off. After a few unpleasantness, he pointed out the direction we should go, calling me friend. I corrected that misconception!
We were soon approached by a tour guide offering guiding in the Forbidden City. When we declined she asked if we wanted to see the wall and gave us some quotes and and email address. We asked her about the rickshaw and she said the police are trying to stop it, and commended us for what we did.

The "Forbidden City" seemed a little smaller initially to what Roy had expected, but it is deceptively large as a whole. We wandered around for hours, Discovering more rambling buildings and exhibitions.

Garden at Forbidden City

A welcome coffee break helped our tired feet, although for China coffee over R50 a cup seems quite high. It was good though.

Theatre at Forbidden City

About 4 we walked out the city to Tianenman Sq. 3 Chinese ladies were walking along and started up conversations with us, saying they were on holiday from the south of China. 2 spoke very good English. I was a little frustrated having to make conversation instead of taking in my first view of the Sq but they were very chatty. It came out we were going for a late lunch and they suggested we all go together. In the next road was a tea room they chose and we sat in what seemed the only room. A menu was brought and I chose Tofu with rice, and Roy chicken. The friends asked what we wanted to drink and Roy ordered a beer while I declined. A few snacks were put on the table and tea was brought. They brought tiny glass bowls and the lady next to me poured tea for everyone and kept filling up our glasses. Only 1 of the ladies ordered food which was a little odd, but they said they had eaten earlier. Next thing some awful red wine in martini glasses was served. I declined and Roy struggled his way through. Roy went to he looks and although I wanted to go to, I didn't think it sensible to leave our belongings with 3 strangers. Good move! Soon the bill arrived, 2000RMB! When I realised, I said to Roy to hold off. I pretended to go to the loo. The "friend" insisted on taking me as it was up the alley next to the restaurant. I snuck off to find help, but there were no police around and no English. I saw a young person with glasses (code in China for student = speaks English) in the restaurant next door and asked her if she thought it a scam, which she did. So I walked back in aggressive, and said that we thought this a scam and we not paying. They tried the guilt trip thing that they would have to pay if we didn't,  but when they realised we were not falling for it they quickly got nasty. Geez, twice in 1 day! Roy had given 400 and we said that was it and they were welcome to come with us to find a policeman to mediate. They weren't accepting, not surprisingly. We walked out and they followed. I threatened to take their photos and they cheekily threatened the same back. No shame. We followed them for a while back towards Tianenman but lost sight just before we reached the police block. We approached the young policeman (with glasses) who spoke a little English. He radio's someone and asked us to wait and that we'd get our money back, even though we explained we just wanted them to know about the restaurant for the next poor sod. We waited and some English speaking police arrived and asked us to come with them and show the place. We all went back and they confronted the ladies. I heard the older policeman shouting at the other woman. The policeman with us asked how much we would like back. I asked him what he thought fair for dishes and the beer and we agreed on 200. He told her to return  200.  She still tried to give back only 100 and he stopped her. Thought they would have been more scared of the police. So was very impressed with the police service, but left with a bad taste from the whole experience. And in the tussles I lost my beanie which is annoying. Feeling a bit jaded we visited Tianenman and then back to the shopping area. Walked around the night market with trinkets and scorpions on sticks but it was very touristy. Tired, we caught the underground to the station and are sitting at a coffee shop while Roy enjoys a beer and putting our feet up.
Roy noticed that literally everyone in he restaurant was on their phones. While sitting, he saw not a single person in the restaurant talking to each other.

Cell phone coffee shop

2nd and last day Harbin

At breakfast we met a nice Australian lady and a Swedish guy travelling together. We made friends laughing about the strange looking colour of the liquid they were calling coffee. It wasn't and was sweet. We managed to get a real coffee after asking.

We gave them some tips on where to go on the Trans Manchurian as they were doing our trip in reverse. She also confirmed for me that China have banned Facebook and obviously the blog site as well, so no more updates loaded till South Africa I guess. Bizarre to say the least.
We went back to our room and packed our day packs so that we could leave the main bags at Beijing station when we arrived, and leave them there while we did the Datong, Pingyao trip. We checked out and left our bags at the hotel.
Nearby is a pretty church which has been converted into an art centre.

We walked around a shopping mall to warm up, which sold mostly shoes. My R2000 Colombia boots that are supposed to be rated to minus 50, have been useless, and here were wonderfully padded, simple shoes that everyone was wearing for about R100. (In fairness I to Colombia I later asked someone wearing the Chinese boots if their feet were cold and they said yes, when mine were still warm. Also, I realised my mistake was taking 20 year old socks that soon had holes - I needed thicker ones). I considered buying, but didn't feel like the hassle of carrying an extra pair, so we braved the cold again and walked to Zhaolin Park. The lady at the ticket office confirmed it was only 100 yen anytime of the day and we decided to come back just before it was getting dark so we could experience both. We wandered up to the trendy shopping area called Zhongyang Dajie, where we bought some nice street food, including bits of meat,  something fishy and some  goji berries, which of course were crunchy because they were frozen from being outside. Did I mention it's cold in Harbin!

My toes were going numb again, thanks Colombia, so we found a coffee shop and had some great coffee and a pinenut tart. Warmed up again, we went back to Zhaolin Park to find the price had now doubled. Sigh. As the main tourist attraction of China, why not just put the prices and explanation up in a few foreign languages. We paid anyway and enjoyed the relative quiet of this park compared to last nights crowds.

Back at the hotel we recharged our phones and sent last few emails. As we'd already checked out we were not allowed to use a toilet, really? And Ibis is an international hotel group. We collected our luggage and walked quite a way before catching a taxi. I think he only stopped because he thought we were going to the airport as the trip to the station cost less than R20. Roy got our e-tickets converted to actual ones and although the ticket hall looked crowded he said the man was very helpful. We converted all the tickets, including to Datong, etc.  Now we are waiting in the waiting area 5 for our train.

So everyone started queuing for the train and we joined the crowd. If possible, it felt even colder outside and the ground was very slippery on the tiles. The queue came out at coach 1 and Roy said ours was 24. At first I thought he must be wrong as surely there weren't that many coaches, but by 10 I still couldn't see the end of the train and I joked whether there would be enough time to reach the end. At 11 the coaches started doubling up to my relief, but at the end of the train we'd only reached 19? The crowds had thinned and we were directed back to the other end of the train. Checking along the way a few times, we still were told further back. Eventually we were running, the only passengers left on the platform. When they started blowing the whistle, one of the lady conductors let us on her coach and pointed us further on down. Now on the train, the passages were crowded with people charging their phones and getting acquainted with each other, and here were these stupid Westerners dragging their big bags along behind them, crushing toes while not knowing how to apologise in Mandarin. We were coach 2. The 4 following the number 2 was actually some Mandarin writing which vaguely resembled a 4.
Our fellow travellers, in our coupe were 2 Chinese men from Harbin. The younger one, a student,  studied English in Beijing but has only got written experience, but it's such a pleasure to be able to communicate.
Pic

Day 3, arrive Harbin

Struggling with the normal backache from these awful mattresses I roused myself for some nice coffee.

Our cabin

It was interesting seeing the change from Russia to China. Suddenly there was lots more farming, and for miles and miles the Chinese are building a double line for a bullet train. All the way along next to the existing line. So much is being spent on infrastructure!

Bullet train line being built

The most exciting thing of the morning was seeing a little fox from the train. Sweetest thing. Nearing Harbin, our conductor told us to look out the window as we passed the tiger zoo and I saw 4 of the poor creatures walking in an enclosure about the size of a football field,  maybe bigger. At reaching Harbin our very friendly neighbours got very excited when they thought Roy was forgetting his phone, and ignoring my "No, please No" they managed to smash it into a few pieces across the floor. A few new dents, it at least still works fine. They meant well, but when she wanted to help dress me for the warm that was going a bit far.
So we had arrived in China!

Lots of people, lots of guttural snot clearing and spitting, and the occasional car driving on the pavement. Without having any cash yet we walked to the hotel which was a slow half hour, seeing our first ice sculptures on the way.

We found the Ibis hotel and Roy went to the bank of China next door and exchanged the rest of our rubles for yen. After 2 days on the train (second class, shared basin only) it was good to wash my hair and have a proper shower.
In the lobby was an agent who offered free transport to "Ice and Snow World" if we bought our tickets through her. We did and were waiting in the lobby by 3.30. We were disappointed it wasn't leaving a little earlier as sunset was about 4, but the half hour didn't seem worth the effort of trying to arrange a taxi. After waiting about 15 minutes I went to check with her, only to be told it would only be 4.30 now. Wondering if that would become 5, then 5.30 which was the later shuttle we decided to ask for our money back and tried getting a taxi. We were convinced the guy in the lobby was overcharging at 150 although later we wondered if he misunderstood us and it was to wait and return. Anyway, him not letting the hotel reception advise what the fare should be annoyed us. So we started walking and waving at all the taxis who ignored us. We'd see one pull over and people get out, and before we could get to the driver someone else would jump in. It's hard catching a taxi in Harbin! We reached the frozen river where it was quite festive. Foofy slides and horse sleys on the river. Walking along the river I soon managed to flag a taxi who swerved across the traffic, blocking one lane, while Roy couldn't get across the other lane so we could leave and restore traffic flow. In China everyone just hoots. It then took us a while, using translators and maps to explain where we were going. The drive was further than expected, along a freeway. From a distance the Park looked magical. He asked the traffic police where to drop us and we piled out in the parking area. In our rush Roy left his one mitten in the taxi which he was most upset about. Thank goodness he'd brought his other gloves so he'd be going home with both hands at least.
And it was cold. We joined the crowds and got our tickets,  300 yen each and entered the park. The sculptures were good, but perhaps a little too much too close? Perhaps the pink, Blue, Green colours were all too much? Perhaps we'd hyped it too much.

For you, dad

As my toes got numb we went into the food hall and had some delicious broccoli dumplings and some very spicy tofu.

Outside, we tried the frozen toffee apples you see all over Harbin.

Admired a few more sculptures before warming up again.

Show at Ice World

Stumbled on a show with people skating down a mountain and lots of red flags. At 8 we entered he theatre and watched the first 5 minutes of a Moulin Rouge copy. Worried about how we were getting home, we exited about 8.30, relieved to find taxis. The first wanted to charge 100yen but the next guy said 60 which we accepted.

Day 2 Train to Harbin

In the early hours of the morning Tanya and Anya left and a Russian Vietnames lady joined us. She was very sweet, but spoke no English and chatting at 3 in the morning has never been my strong point. Roy was on the bottom bunk so sign languaged a bit before going back to sleep.
In the morning we made our acquaintance, and she was lovely. We are the same age and she buys and sells shoes. She was on her way to Vietnam via Beijing. It's still called Peking in Russia.

At midday we arrived at the border. Our conductor warned us we had to leave the train and we sat in the dingy station for well over 3 hours. It was dull. There were 2 kiosks and we tried a pie which was dreadful so bought some biscuits and pickles with our last few small change rubles.
Our train returned, now on the Chinese rail track, but the doors were still locked. Maybe it's for security for those who went into town. Finally we were allowed back on, but soon the Russian border crossing procedure started. Passports were checked. Wait. Bags were checked (our poor friend had to open all her bags and tear open boxes). Wait. More passport checks. The lady stared and stared at me, obviously not happy with my passport picture. Wait. I thought it was all over and walked down the passage for something when the customs arrived back and said I must go with them. There was a youngish man in charge, an older man and a Chinese looking lady interpreter. And I got grilled. I showed them my British passport as well as I look closer to that picture. They seemed very interested in why I had spent a month in India and tested my memory on where all I'd been. Took a while to even remember the Taj! How long in Egypt. Who with. Chatting, I could see she was trying to catch me out and would ask the same question later in a different way. The man in charge left at some stage. She asked me if I was on Facebook. Eventually she thanked me for answering the questions and said I could wait next door. The only other being in this room was a spaniel sitting on the chair. She was so intense and stared at me when I sat next to her. She look away, then back with a worried frown, deep into my eyes. I let her smell my bread and cheese fingers (I'd just made a sandwich) Soon the lady returned and walked me back to my carriage.  In the mean time Roy had been totally stressed that the already overdue train would depart without me as soon as the passports were returned and had started frantically packing. He was very relieved. While I was away they had searched every inch of the train.  Next my furry friend came running through the train, smelt my fingers again and ran off to the next carriage. It did cross my mind that making friends with the Russian sniffer dog might cause some unwanted trouble. They are bizzarly over zealous.
About 7 hours later we finally left for China. Here the guards arrived with smiles on their faces, checked passports and all honkey dorey. Roy and I watched Golden Eye, then went to sleep and a few hours later the train left.

Train to Harbin

We dragged our bags down the hill to the station in the dark, working up a sweat. Almost at the station was a flight of stairs down the embankment, covered in ice. A young man walking down fell at the top and then again at the bottom few steps. We took it slowly. At the station, the dreadful announcer was shouting her instructions non stop again,  but we didn't have as long to endure this time.
On the train we got our bags under the seats and were joined by a Russian lady, Tanya and her young daughter, Anya. Having been up blogging all night, I tried to sleep through Anya and her new friend up the passage playing screaming games, but suppose it was morning. By afternoon she had a long sleep so it was peaceful, but boy, did she have something in store for us. Once she woke, the constant jabbering didn't stop and at one stage I swear I heard her say 'That is kak'. There must be a Russian word that sounds like Kak cos I often hear it and smile. (I've since heard Kak means how in Russian)
Roy and I decided to watch Octopussy.  We put on our headphones and tried to listen, but Anya turned into the brat from hell and the jabbering turned nasty and she started chanting the same Russian sentence in the most whiney voice while her mother tried to ignore her and sleep. After about repeat 200, and having the movie on pause yet again as we couldn't hear, I finally snapped and told her to sush. I think it helped as Tanya eventually got her to shut up not too much later. We soon went to bed as well.

Dog sledding and back to Irkutsk

It was lovely waking up in he forest. We got a knock at about 9 o clock and went for breakfast. Happy and friend were back, so I snuck them the chicken I'd saved from dinner. I spoke to all the dogs down the line, noticing how cold and thin they were. One was just like Hayde in that she pawed me if I tried to leave. I wished I'd saved the chicken for her as she was so thin and had left her pellets on the ground. She needed some proper food! We set up and were soon trudging up the steep side of the mountain, sweating and wishing we were fitter. There was no sun this morning and it was snowing. This time the ride down was expected, and not as steep, so I positioned myself correctly and enjoyed watching the dogs run full out. Would love to know what speeds they get to. It was truly magical riding with the dogs through a snow filled forest in this pristine place.

I was given the reigns again and soon could hear the dogs back home. While the mushers were unsledding the dogs one got loose and came flying at one of the dogs tied near to where I was standing. A vicious attack ensued with the dog next to them climbing in as well. I threw my bag at that one and the musher ran up and eventually managed to separate the two. The one that had attacked the tied up dog had a bad bite on it's face where the dog would not let go. I saw that later they took the injured dog inside.
My toes were too numb to stay out anymore and I hobbled into the tackle room. It's very sore when your toes thaw.

Thawing my toed

The sweet dog that had been in the cage the previous day was now out in the room, and as sweet as anything.

Sweet dog with arthritis

She had part of her lip missing in what looks like an old fight and obviously hobbles. I think he said she has arthritis, poor thing. Oleg soon locked her back in her cage.  

Dogs garden

We said goodbye to Natalie and Oleg organized us a taxi to Irkutsk. Afterwards we regretted not having lunch in Sledvianka first but it was too late when we thought about it. Took about an hour to get to our hotel,  the 'Happy Cat', which was very adequate.

Taxi to Irkutsk

We caught up on emails and then caught a bus over the river to look for lunch. The guide book said the best restaurant was a Mongolian one, and a cold half hour walk later we found the very smart restaurant. They had wi-fi and the food was great. The walk home was freezing but we went via the station so we knew the quickest way there in the morning with our luggage.

Walking back from lunch

Looking towards the station, cold!

Back at the hotel I sat up late trying to catch up on the b logging, not realising that China has banned the blog sites and this was actually my last chance before SA.