2nd day in Pingyao

We tried sleeping late but my word the beds are hard . The pillow was filled with something similar feeling to rice and it all really hurts.

Our hotel entrance

We were woken by our hotel manager and realised a gentleman we had discussed doing a tour with had sat outside for an hour waiting incase we were interested, even though I'd said not likely. After he'd left we felt bad at how badly he needed business so called him back and said we'd pay half his days rate for just 2 hours. We agreed to meet at midday.

Around town

So we found a restaurant for breakfast. I ordered caramel coated sweet potatoes,  which you dipped in cold watewater to harden the caramel. They were delicious.

Caramel sweet potato

I also ordered Rose tea which was lovely, real little pink roses floating on the top.

Rose tea

I asked the lady where I could buy some and she pointed to a tea shop just over the road. They were the only shop in Pingyao selling tea so we bought some later in the day, along with some jasmine and white tea which the lady recommended. Tea is not cheap in China like I expected. It seems to be more of a delicacy although the lady did explain they drink cheaper teas at home and it's the quality which makes it expensive.

We met our guide at midday and he took us to anotheanother of the banks. These were the first banks in China. There was a vault underground where there would have been a samurai warrior protecting it.

We also saw the administration centre where the taxes were collected, judgements were passed as well as having the prison. I found the torture section macabre and unpleasant and something I'd rather not remember.

First ID books

Lastly we saw a temple, where we met a young Chinese girl who walked around with us. I'm a just so untrusting after the Beijing experience, that even though I could see she would have liked company further I didn't encourage it.

Sweet dogs around Pingyao

We did a little more shopping, had a bite to eat and then walked a section of the wall at sunset time.

Walking back to hotel

The pollution from coal fires is so bad in Pingyao that there wasn't a proper sunset and it was starting to get to us. It's no wonder that people are constantly hacking nasty noises and spitting. We rushed across the wall as we understood the gates to close at 5, but afterwards realised that was probably to let people on, not off.

Walking on the wall built 500 years before Christ

After having a light supper we got an lift to the station with our hotel manager for a small fee and caught up on this blog while waiting for the train.

Pingyao

We tried getting off the train and our conductor sign languaged us back inside. How do they remember each passengers destination, or is it that Westerners still stand out? People do stare at us and it seems that normally this means they'd like to engage with you. Or at least just return a smile. We've also been asked to pose with for photographs. We got off at the next station and our hotel man was waiting with a big sign saying ROY. He drove us to our hotel in the dark and into the courtyard and to our room.

Our room on the bottom right, taken later when light

It is lovely with the typical Chinese bed with a table in the middle and Chinese style bedding.

We took much overdue showers (is it 3 days without one! ) and slept till nearly midday. We caught up on some emails and then went walking in the city.

Sweet dog near our hotel

It's extremely polluted and the streets around our hotel are very dingy, but soon you get to the main street which is beautiful with red lanterns all all way along. It would have looked magical at night but they weren't lit.

Lunch

Yummy

The whole place feels a little quiet because it's coming up to Chinese holidays so many have gone to see family. But it was still lovely and we spent the afternoon browsing the small shops. We bought tickets which allow entry to all the museums for 3 days. We only saw the bank and will do the rest tomorrow.

I bought myself a new beanie which I am enjoying. It has a section which covers my ears and doesn't ride up my head like my previous one. I met a Bhudist man in one shop who had chanting playing. He is studying Buddhism and said all the learning temples have been closed in China. I bought some beautiful throws from him.

As we left his shop a wedding ceremony came past. The bride was dressed in red and was being carried down the street by her groom with help from friends. They carried a stool that she stood on when they needed a break. The men were loud and boystrous and all having a good time.

We dropped our shopping back at the hotel, checked mail and fetched our down jackets. It's also pretty cold here, but not as biting. Prediction was minus 10 which feels right.

We are now sitting in a restaurant having hot pot.

Datong

Our conductor woke us and handed back our tickets, taking her card back. Nice system. She had to wake us again as we arrived at the station. Good thing I'd slept in all my clothes and she was so conscientious,  else who knows where we'd have woken up. Datong was colder than Beijing and we arrived at 6.15 so it was still dark. A particular taxi driver was vevery insistant and we tried telling him we'd come back later as  just wanted to get our bearings and find some breakfast. We walked to the CITS travel agency which the guide book said was just around the corner. It all looked a bit dingy and the taxi followed us in. At the hotel receptireception we saw the CITS information sign but nobody was behind the counter. The taxi drivedriver handed us his phone where someone agreed the day price for him was 360. When we got off the phone we realised a man was now standing at the sign and we asked him about the tours. Unlike the taxi driver he spoke English and seemed a real gentleman and said we could have a taxi for the day at 350 and we accepted. He advised the taxi driver who finally left us. While he was too persistent, it's also hard seeing people try so hard to make a living. The gentleman said we wewere welcome to sit in the CITS lounge and he brought us some hot watewater so we could make ourselves coffee while he went for his morning run. Before he left he asked if we would be interested in sharing the taxi with 2 ladies for 100 each and wwe said sure. They also agreed and soon 2 lovely girls from Serbia arrived. They both speak perfect English as well as Chinese. They have been studying language and just completed 6 months studying Chinese at Beijing university. We all used the toilets and chatted until our taxi arrived at 8.
The drive to the hanging temple took over an hour, with one near head on with a truck. Our driver was a little crazy. Even people in other cars advised us of such (Maria translated he shouted comments for us). At the temple it was really cold. Instant frozen fingers. The wind was the problem.

At the hanging temple, frozen waterfalls

But the temple was quite something. First we walked past the frozen waterfalls, then up the hill to the temple.

I was terrified walking along these planks of wood hanging over a VERY high cliff, but was glad I did it.
The drive to Yungan caves was as perilous until the ladies asked him to slow down and Roy gestured no rush ( see, please stop overtaking trucks on blind corners!) He took us to a restaurant for lunch and we ordered fish and chicken. The girls warned us the chicken sounded dodgy, but we think it was just badly cut. Not much got eaten. The fish was very tasty but too full of bones. The hogs in the garden out back looked very sweet and I was glad I don't eat them.  Satisfied, we headed off for Yungan caves, avoiding toll roads by driving through the dodgy areas of Datong. Lots of dust and stray dogs, then through and industrial area full of trucks. We made it there alive and walked up to the caves which were lovely. The air pollution was bad here, unlike Beijing which surprised me. Apparently the Siberian wind blows it away in winter. So the smog made good lighting for photos and we all ambled along the path enjoying the statues.

We viewed the temple afterwards before heading back to CITS lounge by 5 where we are now relaxing until our train.

Working temple at the statues

The gentleman confirmed with Olia and Maria that the bus trip they wanted was definitely not running due to the snow, so they went to the station and got tickets back to Beijing for later in the evening. I chatted with the gentleman for a while about property development and was surprised how expensive Beijing is. He regrets his decision to not buy a few years back as prices have since gone up 20 times! He explained that families will work together and all help so one person in the family can buy. He is helping his daughter. The girls went off to dinner so we said goodbye and the gentleman kindly allowed us to stay in the lounge until our train.

Olia and Mar

This has made the day so much nicer, although I would really enjoy a shower soon! Haven't had one since Harbin, which was 3 days ago!
We bought some water and a beer at the station and boarded our train. The cabins now feel like home and back is slowly adjusting to the rocks for mattresses so I slept well. On the top bunk was a mother and daughter with a large musical instrument.

more photos to follow

Beijing

We were woken at six, with my predictable numb ear. This trip had a pillow filled with sand. I slept on my duvet, doubling it up as a pillow and my soft hat thing which only slightly helped. We had ample time to  make coffee and charge phones a little as the train arrives in Beijing at 7.20. We said goodbyes, zipped up bags and made our way out the station. We found a small left luggage which was about R800 for 4 days. Seemed a bit high, but was too difficult to try find another one . So we were in Beijing!

Beijing style

Walked off towards Tiannenman Square and bought delicious breakfast for 7 yen. It was pancake, egg, sauces, chicken and a large crackly thing. Was delicious. Almost at the "Forbidden City" we were approached by a rickshaw guy who said only 3 yen. He took us through the back streets up a block or two and then stopped in a side street and produced a card showing the ride was 300 yen each. Ja sure, dude. We told him to take a hike. He even made out he'd do us a favour and charge 300 for both of us.  I've decided that in future when these I've scam me, I will walk off without paying as a way to stop this crap, because I'm sure there are people who get caught. Anyway,  we gave him 40 and walked off. After a few unpleasantness, he pointed out the direction we should go, calling me friend. I corrected that misconception!
We were soon approached by a tour guide offering guiding in the Forbidden City. When we declined she asked if we wanted to see the wall and gave us some quotes and and email address. We asked her about the rickshaw and she said the police are trying to stop it, and commended us for what we did.

The "Forbidden City" seemed a little smaller initially to what Roy had expected, but it is deceptively large as a whole. We wandered around for hours, Discovering more rambling buildings and exhibitions.

Garden at Forbidden City

A welcome coffee break helped our tired feet, although for China coffee over R50 a cup seems quite high. It was good though.

Theatre at Forbidden City

About 4 we walked out the city to Tianenman Sq. 3 Chinese ladies were walking along and started up conversations with us, saying they were on holiday from the south of China. 2 spoke very good English. I was a little frustrated having to make conversation instead of taking in my first view of the Sq but they were very chatty. It came out we were going for a late lunch and they suggested we all go together. In the next road was a tea room they chose and we sat in what seemed the only room. A menu was brought and I chose Tofu with rice, and Roy chicken. The friends asked what we wanted to drink and Roy ordered a beer while I declined. A few snacks were put on the table and tea was brought. They brought tiny glass bowls and the lady next to me poured tea for everyone and kept filling up our glasses. Only 1 of the ladies ordered food which was a little odd, but they said they had eaten earlier. Next thing some awful red wine in martini glasses was served. I declined and Roy struggled his way through. Roy went to he looks and although I wanted to go to, I didn't think it sensible to leave our belongings with 3 strangers. Good move! Soon the bill arrived, 2000RMB! When I realised, I said to Roy to hold off. I pretended to go to the loo. The "friend" insisted on taking me as it was up the alley next to the restaurant. I snuck off to find help, but there were no police around and no English. I saw a young person with glasses (code in China for student = speaks English) in the restaurant next door and asked her if she thought it a scam, which she did. So I walked back in aggressive, and said that we thought this a scam and we not paying. They tried the guilt trip thing that they would have to pay if we didn't,  but when they realised we were not falling for it they quickly got nasty. Geez, twice in 1 day! Roy had given 400 and we said that was it and they were welcome to come with us to find a policeman to mediate. They weren't accepting, not surprisingly. We walked out and they followed. I threatened to take their photos and they cheekily threatened the same back. No shame. We followed them for a while back towards Tianenman but lost sight just before we reached the police block. We approached the young policeman (with glasses) who spoke a little English. He radio's someone and asked us to wait and that we'd get our money back, even though we explained we just wanted them to know about the restaurant for the next poor sod. We waited and some English speaking police arrived and asked us to come with them and show the place. We all went back and they confronted the ladies. I heard the older policeman shouting at the other woman. The policeman with us asked how much we would like back. I asked him what he thought fair for dishes and the beer and we agreed on 200. He told her to return  200.  She still tried to give back only 100 and he stopped her. Thought they would have been more scared of the police. So was very impressed with the police service, but left with a bad taste from the whole experience. And in the tussles I lost my beanie which is annoying. Feeling a bit jaded we visited Tianenman and then back to the shopping area. Walked around the night market with trinkets and scorpions on sticks but it was very touristy. Tired, we caught the underground to the station and are sitting at a coffee shop while Roy enjoys a beer and putting our feet up.
Roy noticed that literally everyone in he restaurant was on their phones. While sitting, he saw not a single person in the restaurant talking to each other.

Cell phone coffee shop

2nd and last day Harbin

At breakfast we met a nice Australian lady and a Swedish guy travelling together. We made friends laughing about the strange looking colour of the liquid they were calling coffee. It wasn't and was sweet. We managed to get a real coffee after asking.

We gave them some tips on where to go on the Trans Manchurian as they were doing our trip in reverse. She also confirmed for me that China have banned Facebook and obviously the blog site as well, so no more updates loaded till South Africa I guess. Bizarre to say the least.
We went back to our room and packed our day packs so that we could leave the main bags at Beijing station when we arrived, and leave them there while we did the Datong, Pingyao trip. We checked out and left our bags at the hotel.
Nearby is a pretty church which has been converted into an art centre.

We walked around a shopping mall to warm up, which sold mostly shoes. My R2000 Colombia boots that are supposed to be rated to minus 50, have been useless, and here were wonderfully padded, simple shoes that everyone was wearing for about R100. (In fairness I to Colombia I later asked someone wearing the Chinese boots if their feet were cold and they said yes, when mine were still warm. Also, I realised my mistake was taking 20 year old socks that soon had holes - I needed thicker ones). I considered buying, but didn't feel like the hassle of carrying an extra pair, so we braved the cold again and walked to Zhaolin Park. The lady at the ticket office confirmed it was only 100 yen anytime of the day and we decided to come back just before it was getting dark so we could experience both. We wandered up to the trendy shopping area called Zhongyang Dajie, where we bought some nice street food, including bits of meat,  something fishy and some  goji berries, which of course were crunchy because they were frozen from being outside. Did I mention it's cold in Harbin!

My toes were going numb again, thanks Colombia, so we found a coffee shop and had some great coffee and a pinenut tart. Warmed up again, we went back to Zhaolin Park to find the price had now doubled. Sigh. As the main tourist attraction of China, why not just put the prices and explanation up in a few foreign languages. We paid anyway and enjoyed the relative quiet of this park compared to last nights crowds.

Back at the hotel we recharged our phones and sent last few emails. As we'd already checked out we were not allowed to use a toilet, really? And Ibis is an international hotel group. We collected our luggage and walked quite a way before catching a taxi. I think he only stopped because he thought we were going to the airport as the trip to the station cost less than R20. Roy got our e-tickets converted to actual ones and although the ticket hall looked crowded he said the man was very helpful. We converted all the tickets, including to Datong, etc.  Now we are waiting in the waiting area 5 for our train.

So everyone started queuing for the train and we joined the crowd. If possible, it felt even colder outside and the ground was very slippery on the tiles. The queue came out at coach 1 and Roy said ours was 24. At first I thought he must be wrong as surely there weren't that many coaches, but by 10 I still couldn't see the end of the train and I joked whether there would be enough time to reach the end. At 11 the coaches started doubling up to my relief, but at the end of the train we'd only reached 19? The crowds had thinned and we were directed back to the other end of the train. Checking along the way a few times, we still were told further back. Eventually we were running, the only passengers left on the platform. When they started blowing the whistle, one of the lady conductors let us on her coach and pointed us further on down. Now on the train, the passages were crowded with people charging their phones and getting acquainted with each other, and here were these stupid Westerners dragging their big bags along behind them, crushing toes while not knowing how to apologise in Mandarin. We were coach 2. The 4 following the number 2 was actually some Mandarin writing which vaguely resembled a 4.
Our fellow travellers, in our coupe were 2 Chinese men from Harbin. The younger one, a student,  studied English in Beijing but has only got written experience, but it's such a pleasure to be able to communicate.
Pic